1000km of Solitude - A South India Odyssey

Every now & then, I tend to get a jolt which shakes me from my high perch & forces me to take a road less traveled.

With a host of furious fancies
Whereof I am the commander,
With a burning spear and a horse of air
To the wilderness I wander.

...By a knight of ghosts and shadows
I summoned am to tourney
Ten leagues beyond the wide world's end,
Methinks it is no journey.

--- from "Tom O'Bedlam" (Anonymous)

For the restless souls like me who would be more interested in the route details than the story board; route details indicated below... (click to enlarge / download)

Was hoping to complete the 1000km milestone by attempting the Ooty - Agali - Mannarkad (Silent Valley) - Palaghat - Pollachi section. But that would have left folks @ home fuming. Hope to do it sometime. Route indicated below:

http://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/page/?o=RrzKj&page_id=133266&v=4t

A climb before the ride

Ramnagaram - Stairway to Heaven

Its been almost 10 years since self & Vijay have been discussing about climbing @ Ramnagaram.

Finally, we managed it today; when the 3 of us including Allwy landed up at the abode for a days outing.

The light showers over the past 2 days had cast a shadow on our plan as had the injury to my knee. Given that all 3 of us had a streak of unpredictability when it comes to planning a trip; the outcome of todays trip was nothing short of serendipity.

While I was trying to steal a climb before the cycle ride, Vijay & Allwy were also doing the same before their planned vacation with family. To cut a long story short, we were extremely happy to be present at the Granite abode.

Given the crazy B'lore traffic, it was noon by the time we started our climb near the temple.

As we approach Ramnagara, the landscape transforms into huge Granite walls spread across. It is captivating to say the least. While Hampi can stun onces senses with the huge expanse of boulders, this place has a similar surreal effect on ones psyche.

The pleasant winter weather was ideal for climbing.

Our climbing area near the temple & pond had close to 10 sports routes of ~50 feet ; with grades varying in the range of 5.0 to 6.0 I guess (not really good in the art of grading.. so this is just an estimate)

(Above snap is taken from the web; only for representative purpose. Vijay is expected to upload the snaps)

Over an intense 4 hr climbing session, the 3 of us managed to lead 5 routes.

The last route was probably one of the best routes we had done in a while.

Climbing on granite exposes one to a whole new world of edging & balancing.

As we bid adeau, the thought of extending our stay did cross our minds...however that shall have to wait for another day & time. The possibilities for multi pitch sports & trad climb is immense.

Since our photos are with Vijay, represented below in the background are some of the more exotic routes (images taken from net)

It was gr8 to catch up with Allwy & Vijay on the rocks. Hope to be back soon;

but for now it is time to put the final preparatory work on the cycle before the ride begins.

Relocating to the mecca of rock climbing -- B'lore is definitely on the cards.

A good resource for Ramanagaram can be found here:

http://www.freewebs.com/sudeepkl/itraveller.htm#73861222

Reproduced below for your benefit:

Climbing @ Ramanagar

I really have felt this granite empire as the Mecca of Rock Climbers.One can have a long climbing vacation out here, you can climb small boulders, cracks, overhangs, multi pitches, slabs, pillars.

Some Bolted routes (click for more details): Shanti, Vani’s Wedding, Super Deluxe, Heart of Stone, Onkal Rock, Kamasutra, Prema’s Chapati, Namaste, Senapati

Ramanagaram is a taluk centre in Bangalore Rural District known as the land of seven hills.Considered as Mecca of Rock Climbers, Ramanagar has plenty of opportunities for the budding and the professional alike. Climbs of various grades along with few bolted routes as well are present.

This town lies on the Bangalore-Mysore Highway.

Geograpgy of Ramanagar : Shivaramagiri, Yatira-jagiri, Somagiri, Krishn-agiri, Revannas-iddeshwara Betta, Jalasiddeshwara Betta and Sidilakallu Betta are the seven hills that dot the landscape of this taluk. As one travels on the Bangalore-Mysore highway, one can see the Ramanagaram hills with their rocks aligned majestically.

About 4 kms away on the outskirts of the town lies the Ramagiri Hill. Also called Ramadevara Betta, Shivar-amagiri, Kaakasura Betta, Kapotagiri, this hill resembles a lingam when viewed from the east, Ganesha from the west, a serpent from the north and Lord Hanuman from the south.

The hill is about 3066 feet above the sea level. Rocks of various shapes and sizes can be seen here. Some of them resemble a whale, a pigeon, a human being and the three-headed Brahma. During the British period, Ramanagaram was called Closepet. The granite available here was much sought after in the bygone days. The hill has about 450 steps and the western side of the hill has the Kharkhaane Bande, remains of a magazine and carvings of Garuda, Maruthi, Ganapathi and Venugopal on the rocks. One can reach the top of the hill after passing through three doorways. There is an inscription on the Kharkhaane Bande.

There is a pond on top of the hill. The Rameshwara shrine is situated on its right bank. Images of Linga and Nandi can be seen on the rocks here. On the top of the sanctum sanctorum, there is a small tower built of bricks and mortar. There is also a platform by the sides of the Sukanaasi.This temple was earlier called the Thryamb-akeshwar temple. A Parvathi shrine can be found close to this temple. Behind this temple, is a choultry, believed to have been constructed by Kempegowda.

The Sri Rama temple is located on the other side of the pond. The Navaranga has statues of the Vaishnavite saint Raman-ujacharya and Nammalwars in yogic postures. Figures of serpents and the Shree Chakra are carved on the ceiling. In the sanctum sanctorum, is an image of Sita and Rama and an image of Hanuman. The shikara is in the Dravidian style. It is believed that Kempegowda constructed the Rangamantapa.

History of Ramanagar:

Behind the Rama temple, there is a rock called Homiakumbhi Bande. A flight of about 50 steps takes you to the top of this rock. It is believed that Kempegowda found a treasure at a place called Naidile theertha here. The great Vaishnavite saint Ramanujacharya is said to have visited this hill during his sojourn in these parts. As though to give credence to this event, the adjoining hill is called Yamiraja Betta. Historians opine that this place was under the domain of Mauryas (268-372) and later came under the control of Gangas, Cholas, Kalyani Chalukyas, Hoysalas, Vijaya-nagar kings, Yelahanka Naadaprabhus, Mysore kings, Hyder Ali and finally Tipu Sultan.

Kempegowda Sr. began to rule at Yelahanka near Bangalore in 1510 A.D. He visited Ramagiri in 1530 A.D. and it is said that he constructed a fort here. According to experts, Ramagiri became Ramagir-idurga during this period. In 1638-39 A.D., Ranadullah Khan assessing the strategic significance of this place, laid siege and emerged victorious after vanquishing Immadi Kempegowda.

In 1791 A.D. Tipu Sultan transferred his arms and ammunition to this place and strengthened the fort. It was around the same time that the third Mysore War was raging. Tipu expected Lord Cornwallis here but his calculations went awry as the British, anticipating the impending danger, reached Sriran-gapatna through Kaankaanhalli, according to historians. The same year saw Capt Welsh hoisting the Union Jack on this hill.

For ages, this place has been home to Jains, Shaivites, Vaishnavites, Veerashaivas and Muslims. They have been living together in harmony. There are stories mentioning Ramagiri in Valmiki and Thoravi Ramayan. In Revannasiddeshwara Ragale, a work by Harihara, there is a reference to this place. The 16th century work of Renukaradhya, Bheemeshaadri Mahasthala Purana, also makes reference to this place.According to some research scholars, a Sarvajna Vachana which states "Sidilu Kallina Balagadelu Koteya Nagiri" refers to the seven hills of Ramanagaram taluk.

The place also finds mention in Manteswamy poems, Nallappa's 'Hydernaama, Kempegowda's 'Jayaprashasthi' and Col.Home’s 'Selected Views of Mysore'. Buchanan who visited this region has given an account of the fort of Ramagiri and also the presence of tigers here.

South India Odyssey (2010)

In the middle of the night

I go walking in my sleep

From the mountains of faith

To the river so deep

I must be looking for something

Something sacred I lost

But the river is wide

And it's too hard to cross

And even though I know the river is wide

I walk down every evening and stand on the shore

I try to cross to the opposite side

So I can finally find what I've been looking for................!! - Billy Joel

Its been almost 4 years since my last memorable cycle ride (soloing the konkan coast).

Ever since that trip, a host of grandoise plans were etched in the itsy bitsy corners of my head;

well exemplified by the memorable lyircs from Billy Joel.

4 years stuck in a cubicle within a glass cage meant, none of those grandoise plans could germinate.

Not sure how many times i have shelved the Manali - Leh ride. However, a few silver lining that helped maintain my sanity were the rides to Pune-Mahabaleshwar - Panchgani , Satara & Raigad.

Hey, but there can be nothing more alluring than the joy of soloing a lonely road traversing the countryside for eternity; as it winds its way up the hills n plains.

Touring South India was always on the agenda... especially the N

ilgiri hills bordering Kerala - Karnataka & TN.

The TFN (aka Tour Of Nilgiri) initiated by a B'lore based cycling group acted as a catalyst. While TFN has been a brilliant initiative ( & I hope it grows in stature to become one of the most coveted rides in the country stretching across the Vindhya's); riding with a grp of 50-100 cyclists was a bit unnerving.

Therein lies the foundations of my South Indian sojourn.

Reached Bangalore yesterday, with cycle in tow in the cool comforts of an AC bus.

The volvo guys charged 500 bucks as luggage for carrying the cycle....

(after dealing with Lavasa & Pawar, Mr. Jairam Ramesh should take up the cause of cyclists :) )

Bangalore hasn't changed much over the years (atleast the C

antonment area) except for a few glitsy glass cages (read buidlings) & new flyovers.

With my young & restless cricketing cousin for company, it wasn't long before we thrashed the neighbours glass window. Currently hunting for a carpenter to repair the damage. In the excitement, also managed to twist my right knee which is now neatly strapped.

That apart, need to get my pdealling gear / spares in place apart from getting a fix on the route.

Hope to cover Ooty, Waynad, Kalpetta, Sultan Battery, Silent Valley National Park, Valpara , Sholayar. As things stand today, plan to start the ride from Monday.

(a possible route)

Tomorrow, a rock climb beckons at Ramnagaram (venerated as the abode of Gabbar & Sholay).

Hope the knee recovers, else will have to resort to some pain killers.

Cant write any further as Simba, Zorro, Casper & Minty are vying for my attention :-)

Simba the German Shepherd,

Zorro the pug

Casper the Persian cat &

Minty the cocker spaniel.

More later.

Pedal Power - 3 days / 300 km

Wish you all Pedal Pushers a Happy and Eventful 2009.

Just back from a 3 day pedaling sojourn covering Pune - Panchgani - Mahabaleshwar - Pratapgad - Poladpur .

For most of 2008, all my well laid pedaling plans seemed to have gone down the drain.
The empty feeling of not having set off on a road trip for the whole year was agonising to say the least.

By doing this trip spread over 31st Dec, 1st & 2nd Jan'09; managed to redeem myself of the 2008 jinx , while also start 09 on a +ve note.

The original plan was to cycle up Pratapgad Fort via Poladpur (ahead of Mahad ) . Had heard a lot about Ambenali Ghat that leads to Pratapgad (4km steep detour) & further to Mahabaleshwar and Panchgani. It is one of the longest Ghats in the Sahyadris winding its way up for 41 km. However, the very thought of getting screwed on Ambenali made me opt for Plan-B :) .... a longer route along NH-4 with 3 smaller Ghats (Khandala, Khambataki, Pasrani) to manouver.

With Anoop 'n' Co headed for Konkan and Akshay ditching at the nth hour; it was meant to be a solo ride once again.

Left base on 31st morning from Goregaon by train to start the ride from Kharghar (Navi Mumbai). This was the fastest way to get out of city limits while also saving on time given the 3 day time frame.

Day -1 (130 km)

Kharghar - Khopoli : 47 km
Left Kharghar @ 7.30 am for Khopoli along NH-4 by taking the Panvel bypass to reach Khopoli by 10:00am.
This is a gentle route.

Khopoli - Lonavala : 15 km
After a brief break, left for Khandala and Lonavala. Negotiating Khandala Ghat was the first challenge; which drained me completely. While my logic of using a racer with 21 gears was justified; carrying a haversack & cycling uphill was making my senses comfortably numb.
To cut a long story short, slogged for 3 hours before hitting Lonavala by 1.00pm.

31st meant, Lonaval was chokablock with tourists. A quick lunch & decided to head straight out of city limits. From here on, the route via Kamshet is a breeze.

Lonavala - Vangaon (before Katraj bypass Tunnel) : 68 km

Before reaching Dehu Road, there is a diversion[~38km from Lonavala] (there are no Indicators here) leading to Katraj Bypass along Pune - Satara - Bangalore highway (NH-4). This diversion meets Pune end of Expressway. Traffic in this section of the route is quite bad. It was 7.30pm by when I had called it a day.

Lodges available for about 400 bucks a night.
(couldnt fig out home-stay option anywhere along e route)

Day 2 : (90 km)

Vangaon - Surur : 70 km
Highlight of this section is the 1.5 km long Katraj bypass tunnel & Kambatki Ghat. The landscape is barren with few pockets of vegetation. The 6 lane highway takes you straight to Khandala. From here on, the road towards Satara has to negotiate Khambataki Ghat while road towards Pune from Satara passes through Khambataki tunnel .

The 8 km Khambataki Ghat is of moderate gradient leading to Surur Phata. Approaching Surur, take a right below the one way Over pass.

Surur Phata– Wai – Panchgani : 20 km

Having spent most of the time along highway, it was sheer relief to ride along internal village roads.

The 11 km long Pasarani Ghat is a winding road with moderate gradients. However, this 2 lane road is popular amongst the speed demons zipping down from Panchgani; making the route tad dangerous for inhabitants on 2 wheels.

Finally managed to reach Panchgani @ 5.00 pm on 1^st Jan’09.

Kamshet & Panchgani are popular destinations for the Paragliding Community. Did manage to see a few gliders dotting the skyline along the way.

Cant really fathom; whats it with places like Panchgani & Mahabaleshwar that draws tourists in hordes. Probably a longer stay would solve the mistry. Must admit; the long winding roads dotted with vintage schools 'n' villas give this place an Old World charm.

Day 3: (70 km)

Panchgani – Mahabaleshwar : 20 km

This is another beautiful & narrow stretch of cycling road .

Mahabaleshwar – Pratapgad : 20 km

Zipping down the twisting Ambenali Ghat @ 50kmph is a hair-raising experience worth every sweat that went onto the earlier climbs. It is a remarkable route winding its way through some breathtaking forests and valley views. After a 16 km intense decent, there is a 4km climb for Pratapgad fort.

Pratapgad fort is relatively small compared to Raigad & Rajgad. HOwver, it is remembered for the slaying of Afzal Khan; whose tomb is situated some distance from fort entrance. Like amny other tourist places, Pratapgad too has to endure the onslaught of restaurants 'n' hawkers. After spending close to 2 hours exploring the fort, it was time to head back to Poladpur for the journey back.

The 25km downhill from here on is interlaced with some bumpy sections. However, once you have overcome these irritants. its smooth sailing all the way to Poladpur.

While I didn't bother to carry any toolkit or puncture repair kit, it was good fortune that none came handy.

The return journey was eventful; as the biggest hurdle was to the cycle up the carrier of an ST bus; and ensure it remained there all through the journey. With each bump the ST managed, had the giddy feeling of the cycle disappearing into the night.

This was mostly an endurance ride as the scenery was nothing home to write about except for the last while descending Ambenali Ghat. However, my Bum 'n' Balls had the most horrifying time enduring a rather thick skinned saddle. At one point, all clothes in the haversack was used for B 'n' B protection.

The one person who pushed me take up this task was Ameet; right from identifying the basic route to providing moral support right through. Thanks mate for all the help extended and looking forward to the next long ride.

No more highway jaunts for me; unless it happens to be up North. That would mean a Trans-Himalayan cycling trip.. now doesen't that sound interesting :)

Looking back, I am amazed at the distances covered by Cycling Pro's day in & day out on the grueling races like the Tour 'de' France . Given that these high performance cyclists cover close to 3,500 km over a span of 20 days @ ~175 km/day; it is a staggering test of human endurance.

To Conclude:

Riding up Ambenali Ghat would be a worthwhile challenge; that would mean rasing the fitness bar atleast 10 notches higher....!!

For Images ----> Click Here

Konkan Cycling 07- Ratnagiri - Mapusa _ details

Konkan Coastal Cycling Odyssey - 2006

Roadhouse blues

Yeah
Keep your eyes on the road, your hands upon the wheel

Yeah, we're goin' to the Roadhouse
We're gonna have a real
Good time
Yeah, back at the Roadhouse they got some bungalows
Yeah, back at the Roadhouse they got some bungalows
And that's for the people
Who like to go down slow
Let it roll, baby, roll
Let it roll, all night long

Why Solo??

Going solo either on a trek, climbs or on a bicycle has always been a turn on. But the inertia to leave all comforts of group / friends meant, I had to gain the much needed confidence & trust in my own skills & abilities. These traits can’t be developed overnight; rather have to be built up over time. Solo treks & short distance cycling outside city limits are in my opinion a good way to assess one’s strengths & weaknesses.

The book “Into the Wild” by John Krauckier has also played a vital part in the scheme of things. Sometimes, books can manage to have a profound impact on people as I was soon to find out. Though I may disagree with the philosophy as preached by the protagonist in the book; what endeared to me was the thought about taking off on short trips without the need for a companion, being self sufficient & also be adept @ understanding situations, taking rational decisions based on both instinct & analysis. I am of the view; a solo trip helps develop gut instinct & ability to make decisions based on minimum information & eventually back those decisions. These are traits which are extremely vital in today’s rapidly evolving business environment.

Apart from self development, it provides one with a wonderful opportunity to interact with the locals & also be receptable to the environment around you.

A lot of noble thoughts & ideas can come to naught if not put into practice & that was the most worrying & harrowing part. Didn’t wasn’t to end up with my ass stuck to a philosophers chair for good.

The desire, passion & energy was all in place & building up to a crescendo. Now, there was no stopping. Whatever reservations folks had @ home were put on the backburner, probably because I am not the conformist of individuals to have popped out in the clan. The reservations on the home front were soon replaced by a good deal of +ve energy & encouragement; thank heavens for that.

With exams all but over, it was time to put the best laid plans to test & see where I stood with regards to ability, endurance & commitment.

How did it all Begin??

Gazing back, Jayesh & Nova were the first blokes whom I had known to be passionate about cycling. This was probably 5 years back in time. But given the wise like grip that rock climbing had on my grey matter; cycling never got the due attention until I started making a few forays into the park (SGNP- during the 2004 monsoons). From then on, have been fed on an assorted dosage of Tour de France & other relevant biking gyan; gaining momentum with the passage of time.

This was also the time, when I was desperately looking @ finding a suitable replacement / alternative to climbing (I guess, it has to do with my short interest span with every activity). To say that, the sport of rock climbing & the people associated with the sport have influenced my thinking & development would be an understatement. However, today as I am on the verge of starting a new phase of my career, the impact that climbing has on me has been steadily declining. It no longer seems to evoke – excite nor inspire me as much as it used to. All said, the group as a whole seems to lack the energy & passion of yore.

Having tried my hands @ Astronomy, HAM radio, bird watching & the likes; was unable to find an activity that was as intense, exciting & invigorating as climbing. The trip to Hampi in 2003, is what ignited my affair with the pedal pushing m/c.

Shifting to Belapur, has helped fuel interest in the sport to a different plane. Vast open stretches of land with an assortment of up-hills make Belapur an ideal cycling country. A second hand cycle worth rs 500/- was the ideal foil to fuel my plans. Apart from providing me with an opportunity to explore the places around Belapur, managed to do a few long distance stretches between Belapur & Panvel. A chance interaction with an adrenalin junkie by the name Bong, helped give definite shape & structure to my cycling aspirations. The objective as I had laid out then, was to:

1) Mumbai – Goa cycling in Dec 2006, to analyse how well I handled the bike, luggage & self on a long n solo trip

2) Hercules Himachal biking challenge in 2007

3) Srinagar – Leh – Manali : 1500 km of high altitude cycling, spanning 1 month or more.

The Build up

The initial plan was to follow the NH17 highway to Goa. However, the events preceding the trip (caste based violence), meant I had to reschedule the trip & also look for a slighter safer route. That’s how, the Konkan coastal yatra took shape & form.

The benefit of not having prefixed action plan is the flexibility that it offers in changing routes without too much hang-ups. This is many ways was an experimental journey & hence any thing I would have attempted was a novelty for me, with its own share of uncertainties.

Pradeep was one bloke, who was as kicked as I was in biking; given that he & his wife form a formidable team. However, he had to drop out for personal reasons, while Piran was sucked into his new job by the new retail boys in town – RIL.

After the last day of college, the cycle had to be serviced, add a 5 gear chain on the rear, make arrangements for carrier in front & back…etc. With so much to do, & so little time, it was the usual hara-kiri, towards the end; like buyin rations, hand pump, helmet, puncture repair kits etc

Pradeep was the constant motivating factor & thank heavens for that. In fact, he managed to lure me into a night cycling jaunt @ Manori & that made me realise the significance of having gears; else the 340 km would have been cut short to 30 km…

While permission from the home front was easy, it came with a rider…”carry a cell phone” .. that was a killer ; as I had managed to stay away from that nasty toy for so long. Finding the right service provider is a big pain in the ass. While selling, they commit coverage even in the nearby Andromeda galaxy; until u actually reach there..Hufff… I got charmed by the Airtel tune, goody goody customer service & the price; only to find that it never worked along the route.

(While on the Konkan route, BSNL, IDEA & BPL are the most widely covered in that order)

Armed with a cell phone & 3 sacks, had to head back to Belapur for the journey to begin. Had to pick up my cycle with all the paraphernalia attached.

The penultimate night was spent mounting all the baggage on the cycle & testing it for balance. Slept off in the college & with alarm bells blasting off @ 5.00 am, it was time to hit the road, after an early morning round of Chai & Misal Pav.

Day 1 : Belapur-Uran-Rewas-Alibaug-Revdanda-Kashid

Left Blpr @ 6.30 along the 20km URAN highway. A straight road leads to Uran, & from there on to Karanja jetty. It’s a pleasant ride & a good way to warm up the senses. The relatively pleasant weather makes cycling early mornings a chill experience.

Crossing over from Karanja to Rewas takes about 15 min in a ferry, after filling up the tank with chai & bhajjis.

The ride from Rewas to Alibaug is another 20 km flat pedal; while trying to come into terms with the cycle, gear, load & fitness. Along the way, managed to gulp a glass full of refreshing Neera. Reached Alibaug by noon & headed straight for Revdanda after a brief halt for filling air. The route from Alibaug to Revdanda is again through beautiful country side. Since it was a Sunday, there were, a stream of cars returning back after the wknd. By noon, I had hit the first set of uphills & soon after, it was time for me to shut shop & take a brief break. Pulled in to a small shack & gorged on chai – chai & kandapohas; while also cursing the miserable performance of the Indian cricket team. All along the route, ask any bloke & the 2 names that immediately draw ppls attention to be sacked are Tendulkar & Sehwag; especially Tendulkar, for bloking the entry of other capable players from Maharashtra.

After a 45 min hiatus, it was time to go full steam & hit Revdanda. A pretty village with a seaside fort, it also has a gorgeous Ganpati temple. Walked along the sandy shores, exploring the fort & finally wading my way trough moist sand to hit the road back to Kashid.

It was past 4.30 pm & I had about 90 min of daylight before halting fro the day. Being the first day, had no intention to push the limits & do a night sojourn.

The day’s proceedings evolved into a nicety, with me reaching Kashid by 6.30pm as the radiance of dusk cast its shadows on the sandy beach. Dropped anchor @ a shack & there came an ex- forex dealer who happened to run a lodge service from a rented bungalow. A nice bloke; had to haggle with him for close to 45 min before he came down on the rates. But for all that, he treated me to some yumm Chicken & Prawns curry. The FOoooooooood , especially after 70 off km of cycling was YYYuummm…….!!!

Spent a few hours lying on the beach, under the full moon. Soon, it was time to hit the sack, amidst the cool n cozy comforts of the bungalow.

While on a road trip, feel free to walk into any shop or house to ask for accommodation; as their may not be elaborate boards & advts indicating the existence of lodging facilities. An alternative would be to spend the night on the beach; which is considered relatively to be a safe alternative.

Day 2: Kashid - Murud - Rajapuri-Dighi-Borli-Shrivardhan

The early morning weather was moderately chill. Unavailability of milk meant, breakfast was a mix of black coffee & Good Day. Finally, left the sandy shores of Kashid; for Murud by 7.00am. Murud is at a distance of 16km from Kashid & the road is quite a neat one with some testing uphills along the way. However the last 2-3 km from the Palace onwards, towards Murud town, is in despicable state. Completed the distance in about 1hr 10min. On route, you pass the villages of Nangaon & Mazgaon.

Murud is a quite town with few tourists floating around; @ this time of the year. The beach is definitely inviting & has a beautiful feel to it. Moving ahead after a round proper nashta, it was time to head for the jetty @ Rajapuri.

For all those planning to make a trip down the coast; kindly bear in mind, the distance between the town & the jetty is a shocker. Being a hilly terrain, the jetty in most cases would be beyond a few hills. That would mean, if you are a pedal pusher like me, then u need to work out some sweat, before taking a relaxing & rejuvenating ferry ride.

Crossing over to Rajapuri jetty from Murud, one has to overcome a few steep uphills before the final dive into the jetty.

There is a fort by the name Kasa , a few meters into the sea. The surprising fact is; despite being surrounded by salt water on all sides, u still get fresh water inside the fort. Since I was on a express trip, couldn’t take the luxury of visiting the fort; instead was more keen on crossing over to Dighi on the other side.

The forts & palaces of Murud were under the rule of Sidhi Jowahar.

Folks @ Rajapuri are extremely friendly & it is very easy to get a conversation going. On knowing about my solo trip plans, immediately on que; they are quick suggest the importance of having a companion along. This was the case all through the journey & had become a ritual for me to narrate a story of how my friends ditched.

Rajapuri, being a predominantly muslim area, boarding & lodging are not allowed. One possible reason, the place has not lost its character & old world charm. From here, by bicycle was loaded on the deck of the ferry & here I managed to have an interesting conversation with the ferry minders; Salim & Usman. They updated me on the route ahead & the possible time & distances that I might have to cover on route to Shrivardhan.

Started cycling from Dighi to Borli Panchattan by 11.00am . This is one route, that made me cringe. The steep gradient, mid day sun & the lack of shade, meant I was exposed to the elements. Didn’t take long before, I was tanking up electral + Glucon D, gamcha while also managing to fill air in the tyres. After nearly an hrs slog, managed to reach relatively flat ground, over the hill. From here on, it was a long winding journey to Borli.

On route, between Dighi & Borli, you will not find any substantial places to eat or rest. The terrain is quite barren & villages are few & far between. So, ensure that you are sufficiently tanked up with water & other eatables.

Finally, managed to reach Borli in about an hr & 20 min. Along the way, met up with 2 kids who were cycling on their rs. 3500/- bicycles. They were in fact wondering; why I didn’t invest in a new cycle? Rohit, an 8^th grader, intended to become an engineer.

Borli is a reasonably big village with restaurants & other amenities available. There also exists a cycle repair shop, in case of any issues. A large school under the aegis of Royal society has come up on a large tract of land. Saw school buses plying on the way.

The religious place of Dive Aghar is located about 1km from Borli. This is the site, where a goden statue of Ganesha is presently placed. The staue was unearthed barely 2 feet below ground level, by a villager about 9 years back. Ever since, it has become a place of religious significance.

A coastal route leads directly to Shrivardhan from here. Though the route is not completely tarred, it has quite a character. Sea cliffs by the ocean, with villages in between; it is a formidable terrain early on; but eases out to a joyous ride further ahead.

Just before approaching Shrivardhan, I was chased by an elderly man on a bike. Speaking in English, he was keen to know about my trip & mentioned about his wanderings on his British made bicycle. He apparently was an employee of LIC & was based in Mumbai. Quite a colourful character, he wished me good luck; while leaving.

Shrivardhan reminded me of my native place in Kerala. The similarities are quite stark; from the modest but large houses , to the front porch, the back yard farm, the clay kiln etc…

A few enquiries & before long I was nestled in the confines of a family owned lodge by the name Ashirwad. In all, I had managed to cover about 50 km. Given the modest number, I was a bit low on confidence while looking ahead. Had no clue for a while, how to proceed from there on & was also looking @ the option of leaving the cost & hitting the highway.

When in doubt, it is always a good practice to interact with the locals & gain a better understanding of the terrain & area around. After a brief rest, it was time to roam around the place.

Amit, the owners son, had informed me about a group of ppl including the head post master & a few rickshaw drivers, who had left a week earlier for Goa along the coastal route. That gave me a good place to start y research. On meeting up with the remainder of the auto rickshaw drivers, realised, they had a rough route map; which they promptly handed it over to me. My chaste Marathi meant, the phone conversation with the postmaster was as trivial as remembering Mendeleef’s periodic table. All the same, these conversations gave a certain resemblance of certainty to the coastal route ahead. Another attempt to start a conversation in a tea stall ended up as a free for all debate on the best route to follow. That was quite an event full discussion. A few more such discussions back @ the lodge & I was quite close to finalising my travel plans. To help me recover from 2 days of cycling, had decided to be a bit conservative & start the following day only by 10.30am. This would also help me give additional time to finalise my plans.

Day 3: Shrivardhan-Harihareshwar-Bagmandla-Bhankot-Velas-Kelshi-Anjarle

Early part of the day was spent, exploring the town; still undecided on the route ahead. It was while picking up films from a stationary shop; the plan crystallised, thanks to encouraging words from the owner. More than the information, it was the manner in which he said them, that convinced me to continue along the coastal route; thereby removing any self doubt that had lingered the night before.

After having the cycle serviced, readjusting the load & a round of Kanda Poha; it was time to hit the road (by 10.30am); but with a clear & vibrant head. Delaying my departure by a few hours, had done wonders to my state of mind. (Something which I should have done on reaching Ratnagiri, but didn’t)

The 20km pedal to Harihareshwar was made pleasant, thanks to a more balanced bicycle & the huge amount of padding that was added onto the saddle; bringing about a smile on my bum. The route has its share of ups & downs, but nothing insurmountable. A good workout; passing through some thick vegetation. Reached Harihareshwar in about 2 hr, in time for lunch. Spoke to a few ppl inside the temple, picked up some literature, visited the shrines of Shiva & his colleagues & finally did the most interesting prdakshina; along the a circular route, passing through sea side cliffs (reminded me of another interesting & unusual pradakshina through a cave @ Yana). This place is apparently referred to as the Kashi of South India & there is an interesting tale from mythology. The rustic lunch was followed by another round of discussions about the route.

A very interesting journey; indeed:

Left Harihareshwar for the jetty of Bagmandla on route to Anjarle. This was, first of the 2 ferry crossings that I would get to do for the day. Bagmadla is 4km down hill from Harihareshwar, passing through pristine vegetation. A truly relaxing ride; especially after some heavy duty lunch. Reached the jetty just in time for the crossing. What u see is a new ferry that has started in the past 2 months, capable of transporting cars & buses across (from Bagmandla to Bhankot).

With this route in place, 4 wheelers can avoid the trip to Mandangad for reaching Shrivardhan.

The ferry crossing is the border between Raigarh district & Ratnagiri district

Once on the other side, it is a memorable ride along the curvy coastline to the village of Velas. As mentioned earlier, there is a wide chasm between Velas village & Velas jetty. Moving ahead of Velas village; began the steepest uphill for the day.

During the first 2 days of my cycling stint; I looked @ every uphill as a challenge (sort of Me against the Road types..!!) & had managed to pedal up all that came my way; of course @ a cost: exhaustion. Soon realisation struck; such misconceived Bravado was only going to bury me rather than take me places. On a long distance cycling trip, it is extremely important to pace u’rself & conserve energy; wherever possible. Taking on challenges are feasible, when doing a days outing with no load; but with around 10 kg of additional load on the cycle; it is definitely not a prudent strategy to follow.

The objectives were realigned; when tackling the road. Up hills that were steep & long were to be handled by pushing, with proper breaks in between.

After 45 min of intense pushing, finally managed to reach atop the hill. This route is secluded except for some dumpers & trucks that ply occasionally. The down hill stretch is though muddy & under prepared road. The route is steep & do keep an eye on the break wires & bag straps from getting entangled in the tyres.
Caution:

When in the countryside, ferry crossing are dependant on the situation of the tide. If the tide is low, then the water & the jetty stop over recedes a good 100 meters into the marshy soil. This was the shocking sight I got to witness on reaching the jetty. Water was no where in sight & the ferry was stranded @ a distance.

Finally managed to lug the cycle along the sandy & soggy shore to the place where the ferry drops anchor. This apparently was the smallest boat that I would get to travel in. Loading & unloading into a 15 ft by 4 ft sail boat; is truly a memorable experience. The locals were a cheerful lot; considering they had to endure my prehistoric Marathi dialect. Had to wade through knee deep water, carrying the cycle on my shoulder, before it could be loaded onto the boat. Without help from the locals, this would never have been possible.

The entertaining boat ride lasted fr about 20 min. On crossing over to Kelshi, it was time to find a route to the beach village if Anjarle. While having tea in the village of Velas, met a few blokes who were familiar with Goregaon & the lane where I stayed. After another round of route identification, headed for Anjarle.

Left Kelshi around 4.30 for the last leg of the day’s- pedal upto Anjarle. The beautiful country side, accompanied by the ocean & the colours of dawn made this 1 hr journey a heady experience; wouldn’t have minded if the route were to stretch for another 2-3 hrs.

Drove into Anjarle, by about 6.30 pm , only to realise there is a power cut.

Note: All villages endure a 2 hr load shedding between 6m & 8pm.

Finding accommodation was not an issue. Met an interesting bloke ( ex BARC) ; who guided me to the right location. Spent the night with a wonderful & animated family. In the night, was treated to a drama (Hansla Phassli by Dilip Prabhavalkar; 3 hr play)practice by the locals lead by a doctor. All this was happening in the adjacent room. Since this was a small hamlet, all the locals would troop in to see how the practice was happening. The bicycle always grabbed the attention & soon followed a conversation about cycling. Met up with an LIC agent who routinely cycles 35km everyday & also managed the honour of cycling non-stop for 12 hours. (haha & someone thought, it was only the city junkies like us who were weirdoes….!! )

After an appetising dinner, it was time to draw curtains on a memorable day – ride – people & stay.

Day 4: Anjarle-Harnai-Dapoli-Male-Dhabol-Dhopale-Guhagar (via Enron)

After a pleasant stay @ Anjarle, left base by 7.00 after a cup of tea. Next stop was Harnai. The ride takes you along some breathtaking views of the sea with gulls/stalks feeding by the bay side on dried fish.

Harnai is not as pretty a place as Anjarle; but still beautiful. Stopped over for breakfast & then proceeded along the uphill route to Dapoli. This again is a rather steep uphill route; which can be covered in about 2 hours. Dapoli is a taluka with all facilities available. However, being Ambedkar Jayanti, elaborate preparations were on. Took a while to figure out the route to Dhabol. It is actually a prominent road (right turn) as you approach the town centre.

The road is being re-laid at many places. As a result, all of it is not a pleasant journey. Decided to skip lunch & push right through; hoping to find a place on route. After nearly 2 hrs & 15km of travel, reached a small nondescript hamlet of Male; with a tea stall & a small temple in the vicinity. Since it was past 1.00pm; had to take shelter from the heat. No sooner was I enjoying my morning cup of tea, did the front tyre burst open. Apparently, it was because of heat & the excess air that was filled in the morning.

From then on began a 45 min tyre operation, with almost entire ppl in the area joining in the proceedings; giving their suggestions. A local business man; came forward to help me repair the rupture & no sooner, was it done, ppl got back to doing their normal work. It is surely a magical experience; when people come forward to help you in such a desolate place. Unfortunately, I had consumed the last roll of film that was on me & had no way to capture the moment or those beautiful people who were part of the repair team. Hopefully; on another trip, I might be able to repay the favour.

With the tyre mended, it was time to head for Dhabol; a steady downhill. The view of Dhabol – Guhagar, Enron Chimneys & the creek in between filled with ferries of varying shapes & sizes provides for some stunning visuals. After a steep decent, headed straight for the jetty; where a huge ferry was waiting.

After crossing over to Dhopale; there is a steep uphill climb for about 30 min, untill you reach the top of a table land. From here, it is a flat ride, passing the gigantic Naphtha containers, electricity pylons & chimneys of the White Elephant named ENRON. It is an establishment of monstrous proportions; with a gas collecting terminal jutting into the ocean.

Note: Though called the Dhabol power plant; it is no longer based in Dhabol, but in Guhagar; after protests by local residents forced the government to relocate the plant to the adjacent hill, across the creek.

Passing the junction for Enron, it is a steady decent, until you enter Guhagar town. Most of these towns are streamlined, following the contours of the coast. Found a neat place to spend the night courtesy a gracious host who offered some good food & directions, for the day ahead. The house was adjacent to the beach & finally managed to spend some quality time on the beach; after nearly 4 days of travel. It was quite a relaxing & rejuvenating locale; with folks who were always game for a discussion on my route plans.

Apart from helping me with route information; they even took the trouble of ferrying me to the nearest market to get hold of a proper map.

All in all, it was a brilliant day for solo travel; for whenever there was signs of trouble or adversity; the goodwill that existed, just made problem solving & decision making a breezy experience. For these reason, I guess this one day might stay with me for years to come.

The next days target was set for Ganpatiphule & Ratnagiri on a more aggressive scale.

Day 5: Guhagar-Hedvi-Narven-Kudali-Jambhari-Khandala-Ganpatiphule-Nevre-Ratnagiri

Day 5 for some strange reason had an abundance of energy to it. Pushed out by 6.30am, with the temple town of Hedvi as the first halt. The 32km long stretch along gentle hills was covered in 3 hrs without breaking 2 much of sweat. The Ganpati temple @ Hedvi is a colourful piece of art, with an exquisite array of blue, pink & red adorning its structure. The shape is unlike any temple that I have come across till date.

From there on, the objective was to find the ferry that would take me across the creek into Ratnagiri taluka. This, as I was to find out would be a very trivial affair. From Hedvi, headed for Narvan where I hoped to take the ferry; but with the village surrounded by hills on all sides, ferry was the last thing I could look for. Taking directions form the villagers, I was told to head for Tavsal & cross over to Jaigadh.

Reaching Tavsal, one has to cross over a few hills untill you hit upon a flat table land with a T junction. The road on the right leads to Tavsal while the one to the right leads to Padval & further ahead to Abloli. On reaching the junction, from the locals, got to know, I was late for the ferry @ Tasval. So, decided to head for Padval. However it was later informed that , the route to the jetty was Padval was precarious & taking a cycle would be difficult. So the only possible alternative was to head for Kudali & cross over to Jambhari. On such open plains with numerous diversionary roads approaching from all sides, it is always a tricky situation to maintain proper route. Every 15 – 20 min, one might find a solitary motorist passing by or a local; whom, you need to stop for directions.

Reaching Kudali without much fanfare was a relief in many ways, as I was concerned of losing my way on the flat open country. The ferry out here was one of the small motorised boats. This part of Konkan reminded me of the Amazon, with its winding river system surrounded by lush green vegetation.

From Jambhari, the route to Ganpatiphule is reduced to around 19 km, thanks to a new route via Khandala. From, Jambhari an uphill route takes you to the village of Khandala. From here on, it is a straight route via Verwade junction to Ganpatiphule. Given the swiftness with which I managed to reach Ganpatiphule, the next objective was to moved ahead towards Ratnagiri. Based on available info, the new route to Ratnagiri was found to be around 32km ; 15 km less than the normal route.

After a brief visit to the temple & beach, decided to follow the new route & see how far I could reach. Given that I was in far too excited state, pushed myself way beyond to raise ahead towards Ratnagiri. With night fall, cycling along the empty forested route became a pleasure. The 30 odd km was overcome in about 3 hrs. Finally, managed to reach the city of Ratnagiri. At first sight, it was a shocker & it got worse as time progressed.

With no easy accommodation available & my patience running thin, took the rash decision of terminating my goa plans mid way & heading back home. I guess, it was a momentary loss of patience that forced me to hit back by the earliest bus available.

All said, this last day, kind of proved the possibility of covering 100 odd kilometres with load was a distinct possibility.

Though, the final objective of reaching Goa was shelved, it did throw open a lot of possibilities which till only a few days back was only a subject of debate & discussion. With every day being a new learning experience; both about handling the bike & the road; it should lay a good foundation for my future forays into the wild.

Down memmory lane....!! Magic Moments

For more photos: Click here

Gorgeous Gorai: Homeward Bound

The old home town looks the same as I step down from the train,
And there to meet me is my mama and papa.
Down the road I look and there runs mary hair of gold and lips like cherries.
It’s good to touch the green, green grass of home.
Yes, they’ll all come to meet me, arms reaching, smiling sweetly.
It’s good to touch the green, green grass of home.
The old house is still standing tho’ the paint is cracked and dry,
And there’s that old oak tree I used to play on.

Down the lane I walk with my sweet mary, hair of gold and lips like cherries.
It’s good to touch the green, green grass of home.
Yes, they’ll all come to meet me, arms reaching, smiling sweetly.
It’s good to touch the green, green grass of home.

Then I awake and look around me, at four grey wall surround me
And I realize that I was only dreaming.
For there’s a guard and there’s a sad old padre -
Arm in arm we’ll walk at daybreak.
Again I touch the green, green grass of home.
Yes, they’ll all come to see me in the shade of that old oak tree
As they lay me neath the green, green grass of home

A great song from one of my all time great-Vocalist : TOM JONES.

The lyrics echo the feeling/sentiments/emotions one experiences as you cut through the congested streets of Malad(Orlem) & proceed towards Marve Jetty & further on towards Manori-Gorai.


Scene 1: Road to Marve

Ever since the Flying Pigeon landed on my lap, i have been under the spell of the weekly migratory path of the Pigeon; as it winds it's way along the Goregaon-Gorai stretch. Early morning or late afternoons are generally when the path is relatively free of congestion ( Mumbai-ishtyle); thereby allowing you to put in some stunning laps along the wide lanes of Link road. As the bicycle winds up along Mid-Chowky, Marve & approaches Marve Jetty; the path narrows down while the surrounding country side opens up. Gone are the city stench, the concrete creepers, the maniacal mayhem & much more. Instead, what lies ahead is wide open spaces all around. As the wind picks up, the salty air engulfs you; An almost primordial invitation by the Deep Blue Sea to visit it's shores & beyond.

There are few roads, streets in a clustrophobic city like Mumbai which has a sense of character. Once such road is the Fork ( or Y ) Junction as u drive down through the mangroves. The Y junction was not created by Men & Machines, but I presume was dictated by the prevailing geography & landscape. To the left of this junction is Mudh Island & INS Hamla; while to the right is the Marve Jetty. It's almost like the Road asking you.." Now, Where to..Honey..?? "

{ The Road to Mudh Island, maintained by the Navy is one of the best stretches in the city & a dream road for cyclists; luring you into Top Gear. The gentle ups n downs covered in thick canopy is a heavenly place to cycle. Arey Rd in Goregaon, was once upon a time a similar stretch; untill MUTP & excessive Traffic ensured that it stays mutilated & beyond repair. }

As the road banks to the right; a few meters ahead is the Marve Jetty & the last stop for Bus. No. 272 from Malad Stn. Over the weekend; this place becomes the most preferred getaway for couples deprived of privacy, mind fucked professionals, hoping to sink in a ocean of CMFL (Country Made Foreign Liquor) with blaring music, & a few climbing/trekking freaks.


Scene 2: Marve Jetty & the Ferry Ride

The Jetty has life of it's own with the Ferry being it's umblical chord. The lives of both are entwined right from the when they start chugging across the stretch from the early hours of Dawn (starting @ 5.30am) to well past midnight ( till 12.00 am). The third & final member of this communion is the BEST bus running between Marve & Malad. These 3 musketeers ( if i may call them ) endure the fishermen, the office blokes, the bikers, the Toddy suppliers etc.. all day through.

On a normal day, it is the locals from across Manori Vilage apart from the Koli's & other fishing communities who inhabit these parts. Sharing space with them on the beach are the Butta walas, selling sweet corn for rs.10/- roasted & marinated with lemon n salt n chilli. However, as the weekend comes, so does the Pani-Puri, Ragada Patties & Bhaji-Pav vendors. Strangely, they never seem to have an off day...I guess, they seem to have the average Mumbaikar under their spell. While the whole of BMC & Govt screams Lepto/Gastro.. these blokes seem to share the common man's take it in the stride attitude..aka " Naseeb Gandu Tho Kya Kare Pandu..!!Khao..Piyo..Aaaish Karo"

Once in a while, u might find the Indian Navy cadets lauching their rafts & sails into the ocean.

After some Chai & refreshments, as u approach the beach, one can find ppl eagerly waiting for the Ferry which by then has left the opposite shore. Though, it is only half a km or about 15min by the Ferry, it is a delightfull journey. As the sea of ppl board the ferry, followed by the Bikers & the lone cyclist along the ramp, it is time for the Ship to Set sail. While the passengers are busy buying tickets ( rs. 2.50/- for Man, Bike & rs.1.00/- for cycle), the engines are already in Reverse Thrust, backing off from the shore. On a rainy day with the tide High, this trip rocks. In fact, during High Tide, the boarding point gets shifted.

No sooner has u'r mind got lost in transit; soaking in the pleasures of a boat trip; than u find the opposite bank fast approaching. Oh Oh..No..PLss..You almost plead to the boatman to move in Slow Motion. The devil in me sometimes, hopes for an engine malfunction; however not for long. Being stranded in the middle for a while should be an interesting proposition. More interesting, would be to cross over in the small rafts used by the fisherman. Though, carrying my pigeon along would be a tricky/risky proposition; given that it is not insured.

( Had it not been for the unabaited reclamation of land, there would have been many more such boat trips. Waiting for the day, when Ferries transport u from Malad to Marine Lines)

Scene 3: Country Road Take me Home ...Manori

As I make my way down the ramp @ Manori Jetty, the woman folks are busy sorting out fish which has been dumped by the boats. Strangely, I could see more of garbage & rubbish..epecially loads of plastic bags. These gigantic ladies had to sort through the mess to segregate the fish. Given that, i have taken a liking for sea food, this definitely was not a nourishing sight. Almost got the feeling; that the ecosystem had long lost being Fragile & instead was Fucked. A few more concrete creepers when constructed along the newly reclaimed mangrove stretch ( after the CRZ rules are twisted; once more) should help the cause.

( Hey...am I getting a bit too cynical about the whole issue; which i guess is the easiest thing to do, apart from suggesting Utopian/Idealistic solutions. The tough part would be to suggest practical solutions & get them implimented. But that will have to wait for another day; for today is to pamper the Pigeon while the solutions can wait for a TOMORROW; if & when it comes. As for the word FRAGILE; it might sease to exist in the OXFORD; except probably in the MOON / MARS edition untill such a day, when Men shall colonoise them too..!!)

Crossing the Manori Creek also changes the character of the place. From the husle & bustle of the mainland, we eneter a laid back place where right from the Autos to the ST buses to the Victoria's are in no hurry. Almost like Goa..but thankfully they don't shut shop @ noon. A bicycle is the safest & cheapest option to roam; provided u can avoid a puncture. The road from Manori to Gorai strewn with mangroves on one side & the sea on other is rather hard on the tyres in patches. The roads are winding & deserted..leaving u all by u'rself.
Life in the village goes on as usual; with folks repairing the nets, boats, drying fish etc. The mainland appears like an eyesore untill the Hills of National Park rise along the horizon.

The Dargah is a cool place to hangout & read a book; apart from ofcourse-climbing. Riding along this place when the rains are heavy & wind roaring..is quite an experience. Being a predominantly catholic area, along the path u find Crosses of varying sizes. Gorai village transports u to some place down south. The architecture is simple but elegant, the lanes dusty but clean , the houses very vibrant with flowering plants & creepers moving all along.

As i went further down the road, it reaches the jump offpoint for Essel World. Proceeding further, i passed the Gorai Beach & further down the road leads to the Bhayander-Mira Rd (Kashmira ) Junction. Though, i couldn't reach the end, it is a well maintained & thickly wooded.

Spending time along the Manori shore, observing the landscape paint a different picture with the Sun & clouds is a delight. To me, the place comes alive @ dusk, when the reddish hue of the rocks amidst the green shrubs, bushes & cacti.

Click Here ---->Snaps of Manori -Gorai _Mudh

Scene 4: From Shangrila to Shanghai ( aka Shanty Town )

The Manori of today would be similar to what my grandad would have seen & admired of Mumbai some 30-40 yrs back. But those were the days of Nehruvian Socialism, symbolised by the gigantic Textile Mills & other Heavy Machinery industries; providing large scale employment for the masses. It was a time, when Middle Class as a concept probably didn't exist & a few skyrises were limited to a few areas in South Mumbai.

In a rapidly evolving political environment, Socialism & it's ideals could probably not keep up with the demands of a democratic state. American Capitalism was seen as the fastest means to Elodrado & most of the developed & developing world were realigning their ideals. The beginning of 1990 saw the demise of USSR coinciding with the Winds of Change ( Liberalisation ) hitting Indian Shores. Free Market & Small Scale Enterprise were encouraged. This was also the time, when the Internet had begun to revolutionise the world after sneaking out of the labs of DARPA.

Liberalisation, Internet/Telecom/Software Revolution, Free Market were the elixir that started the BULL run on the economic front; placing India @ the forefront of the Techno Boom with it's large ready to serve base of skilled Technical manpower. The Middle Class, Sensex & Real Estate were the Buzz words apart from Infy ,Sify & their likes. An increase in the purchasing power of the middle class rallied the real estate boom. As the Yankees say..." There is no business like Show Business ..". ICE aka Infrastructure - Communication - Entertaintment were the BIG daddies responsible for Urban planning & not town planners. Result: The city landscape which had shared a symbiotic relationship with the city dwellers; soon began to change. Rivers n Mangroves gave way to swanky Glass & Metal cages, Mills became Entertaintment Hubs; land became a commodity more precious than gold.

If we were to go by the wise men @ MMRDA, BMC & State Govt & their grandoise plans for Manori-Gorai belt; I dare say, the day is not too far, befr the place might resemble BKC or Andheri with swanky Multiplexes & other means for keeping the dick heads entertained. As if to say, the ZEE driven Essel World & Vipaasna Centre were just the tip of the iceberg.

New Reports :

"Plans to convert Gorai into a Special Economic Zone (SEZ) for tourism may have sparked off heated protests from local fishermen and farmers whose livelihoods are threatened, but many Borivli residents are also quite excited at the thought of their suburb’s entertainment quotient going up.

A city newspaper recently reported that the Mumbai Metropolitan Regional Development Authority (MMRDA) is looking for a consultant to draw up a development plan for the area, which covers 42 square km.

How will the face of Gorai change?

If all goes according to plan, Gorai may soon resemble Surat and Navsari in Gujarat, where the government has created concessions for hoteliers to encourage tourism."

The grandoise plans of MMRDA can be understood from the following tender document....
http://www.mmrdamumbai.org/docs/Website_Notice_on_Gorai_EOI.pdf

Here's what the locals of Manori-Gorai have to say.... as reported in a tabloid.
"If an SEZ comes up here, the landscape will change. This area will become a commercial hub no different from others

Willie Shirsat points to some negative aspects of an SEZ and how it may affect locals. Gorai’s mangroves and beach could be destroyed once tourists start arriving, he says.

Gorai Village residents, all fourth-generation fishermen or farmers who are objecting to this new plan, second that view. They don’t see why the government needs to construct an artificial complex in an area whose natural locale people have been enjoying for years.

A few years ago, village representatives sent a letter to the then chief minister Sushil Kumar Shinde protesting any development plans, if the need arises, they will do it again. Gorai, Manori and Culvem are the only villages left in Mumbai. If destroyed, the lives of thousands will be altered, says Lourdes. "

At the end of the day, the question I might ask is.... Is the Shanghai Dream worthy of being called a dream or a Trojan Horse in the making....!!!

As I ride my pigeon back to base through a downpour, after soaking in the sights n sounds of Eldorado, the DOORS drive me home....Comfortably Numb!!!

Riders on the storm
Riders on the storm
Into this house we’re born
Into this world we’re thrown
Like a dog without a bone
An actor out on loan
Riders on the storm

There’s a killer on the road
His brain is squirmin’ like a toad
Take a long holiday
Let your children play
If ya give this man a ride
Sweet memory will die
Killer on the road, yeah

Riders on the storm
Riders on the storm